L e a n n e   V e r k l e y

Olympics Trip - Part 3 - Turkey

2014-03-12 15:07:46 • by Leanne Verkley

Day 1 and 2
We arrived at the Sochi airport late (felt really late to the kids) but they managed okay.  Our flight was at 1:20 am and having them awake to walk was easier.
Easton fell asleep briefly but woke up as I had to take off his jacket to be checked.
Our wait for our flight included some cartoons on the playbook.  
They actually both stayed awake during the flight (less than an hour).
When we arrived in Trabzon, Turkey after walking off the plane outside, Hadley was quite surprised that this ever happened.  She has always walked right into the airport. Once inside we lined up for our Visa.  We had multiple currency's but apparently not enough of the currency they wanted.  So a nice chap from Liverpool paid for all four of us on the promise we would pay him back once we found a bank machine on the other side.  Plus the customs line let us in front because we had two kids.  Wow!  
By this time it felt like 4 am and the kids were DONE!  I sat on a bench while Brian found a bank machine.
The kids fell asleep instantly.
After paying back our debt we asked a cab driver to take us to a hotel we had previously looked up.  We could see it from the airport.
He made some calls to check availability (I think) and then took us to Uckale Otel.  It was only minutes from the airport.  The room was small but only about $60 cdn for the night and that included the best Turkish breakfast!  The kids especially loved the cucumbers.  But for me there was just a bit of everything brought out with a nice Turkish tea.
From here we actually walked to the airport to rent a car.  It was that close.  It felt far with luggage and two sleeping kids the night before.
We got a rental car and were on our way.
We headed from Trabzon to Giresun along the Black Sea.  Stopping for a park play for the kids.  (There were huge parks very often along this road).  The kids loved stopping for the park.
There were about 15 or so men digging and planting trees by hand and about 5 women hoeing the ground around the park.  There was a new section to the park being added.  I felt noticed without a head scarf.
Then we headed south through the mountains to Sivas.
This entire drive took about 10 hours.  The kids were mostly patient which was good.  The view was unbelievable.
The housing in the mountains were mostly concrete buildings with lots of apartment buildings and farmers huts.  I will describe them as WELL WORN.  Lots with just the concrete window no glass at all.  About 5 degrees Celsius in these parts.  The mountains were steep and there were rickety bridges with old grey wood and zip lines that I would never trust that came down from the houses.
Amazing to see these things off the beaten path.
At the top of the mountains there was snow.  Down at the bottom it got up to 12 Celsius but it was night time.
We stopped at a gas station for snacks and two gentleman got up from what seemed to be an accounting table with paperwork and slips every where.  They were very happy to shake our hands.  We were Canadian.
We got to Sivas and all of a sudden we were in the city.  We got a hotel,  the elevator was the size to fit four squished people and nothing else.  I bathed the kids while Brian went outside to find some fresh fruit (where he found being a Canadian in these parts is kind of like being a celebrity).  
In the morning the kids tried some Turkish pastries, cheeses and other fun things for breakfast.
Brian took us to the market to buy more fruit for our drive today and he was right, they were so helpful and nice.  The produce looked great!
While checking out of the hotel the person behind the counter made it very clear that she loved Hadley's blonde hair.  All of the maids wanted to kiss Easton.  He was happy to oblige.  
Now on our way again.
Public toilets on the road are quite a new experience.  A hole in the ground.  Hadley is getting the hang of it sort of.  Easton doesn't love them even though going outside standing up is perfectly fine for him.
It seems to be 50/50 if you get these toilets or western style toilets.
We arrived in Goreme just after 4 pm.  The buildings are carved out of the rock.  It looks like there are windows carved in the mountains.  We took some pretty steep crazy roads and one required a little engine revving.  Diesel smells bad!  
However the hotel is awesome!  
700 years old. There is so much history here.  The guy who rented us our room was born in this hotel.  They used to make wine here in our room. Right where the kids are sleeping.  Many years before, our bathroom was a stable.
It is so odd to have wifi in such an old space.
We went to town and we were able to try out pottery making.  It takes some serious skill.
We left our art pieces to be re-sculpted into other pieces and bought a cool dish for 15 Turkish lira.  About $7.
The kids were gifted a key chain and ring.  Both had price tags of 25 Turkish Lira but our kids were just handed them.  Wow what a cool experience.  They showed us all the steps to making the pottery even the painting room.  
Fun!

Day 3 February 26, 2014
This morning I woke up at 6am (just before sunrise) and headed up three flights of stairs to enjoy breakfast and wait for the hot air balloons to take off.  Apparently they have anywhere from 50 to 125 of them go every day even in winter.  
I waited with my Turkish tea for about an hour and then... I saw them.  The first one anyway... So I went and woke the rest of the family.  They joined me for breakfast in the sun room as we watched the balloons soar over the land.  It truly was a beautiful thing.
If the kids were older than age seven we may have tried riding in one.  (Another time).  Still a very cool experience to watch!
The rest of the day was spent exploring the caves.  Including Derinkuyu Underground City.  Before we went underground we went through town and found almost no life but then one restaurant had more than one person in it.  So we had chicken (made like gyros) with rice and bread.  Actually quite tastey.
There was no menu, no price but sure we will take it.  It turned out to be reasonably priced.  :)
After lunch we explored about 10% of an 85m deep underground city!  While we thought it was cool and historical the kids thought it was like a play place.  Brian was too tall for some of the stairways and was crawling. Hadley had to bend over once so that gives you an idea.
It was a labyrinth of carved out stables, bedrooms, storage rooms, churches, baptism spaces, confessionals, wineries, wells, and tunnels to the next towns.  Big enough to hold 10 000 people if an enemy attacked.
We paid an additional 40 Turkish Lira (about $20 CDN) to have a tour guide.  This was both interesting and helpful in the labyrinth.
There were some shops outside and Brian and I decided to buy a cool carved art piece of the caves that we stayed in.  We have no idea yet how we will get home.  But it was only 15 Turkish Lira ($7 CDN).  Maybe I will wear a few sweaters on the airplane.  :)  .
Now on to Konya.  
After arriving just after 8 pm to a city that was full of conferences in town, we didn't want to pay for it but we were faced with staying in a suite.  So we enjoyed a nice Turkish kebap dinner and then headed to the pool.  
Afterwards Brian and Hadley enjoyed the hot tub in our room.  Then I stayed with the kids to put them to bed as it was almost midnight while Brian went to check out the lounge.  Our room came with two free cocktails in the lounge so he enjoyed the live Turkish music and ambiance.

Day 4
Today was a long day on the road.  We drove through the centre of Konya which was a bit crazy with a potential world heritage sight being considered in the centre of the round about.
So we left town to check out an actual world heritage sight.  We drove some crazy old country roads, got some strange looks from the locals when we took wrong turns, and were gifted apples from the gas station attendant.  
We arrived at Catalhoyuk.  Pronounced with a ch at the beginning.
Here we found an excavation sight that is one of the earliest cities ever dating back to 7500 BC.
It is a mound where they are excavating houses.  The small houses are all built side by side with no streets, doors or windows.  The people who lived here would climb across roof tops and down ladders into their homes.  
There were two active excavation sights covered in tents, nobody was working today.  With no other visitors we had the place to ourselves.  
After this we drove through some rural Turkey.
When we hit small towns we saw everything from dirt roads to brick layed roads.  We saw goats being herded, 4 cows just walking toward us on the road with no person with them.  However they did have tagged ears and it was clear one was very pregnant.  We saw chickens crossing the road.  One old man clapped for is as we went through town.
We drove through snow covered mountains and 16 degree Celsius weather.  
I find it so interesting to hear prayers through the Mineret speakers everywhere in Turkey.
Again we arrived in Antalya to our hotel after 8pm.  

Day 5
After checking into our hotel we found it to be more resort like than the others.  So instead of rushing along we decided to take the day and call it... Kid day.
We took the kids to the Anyalya aquarium where there were tunnels of fish swimming all around us.  A bit pricey but it was winter and there were only a few people there so that part was really nice.
Then the kids chose McDonalds for lunch.  (It was attached to the aquarium).  This was followed by Mediterranean beach time.  Hadley really wanted some shells so we made it our mission to find some. We found about ten or so and she was quite happy!  Brian was happy because he could finally where his shorts in February.  (February 28th but still).  It was plus 19 Celcius today.  Back home it was -24.
After our wonderful all inclusive dinner buffet we took the kids for a swim.  I think they loved their day.  As did we.

Day 6
Today we visited the hotsprings.
Pamukkale unesco world heritage site.  Meaning cotton castle.
The city contains hot springs and travertines, terraces of carbonate minerals left by the flowing water.
The town was built near the hot springs.  There were some ruins dating back all the way to 200 BC.
There were many burial sites and a theatre.  The best part though was putting our feet in the hot springs.  It was a nice walk.  The kids found it to be long so they were thankful that there was a bus to take back to the gate.  We later arrived in Kusadasi and I found the roads to be very stressful. I am not the best navigator at the best of times but these roads felt vertical.  We eventually parked and then walked a few blocks to our hostel. (Up hill).  A girl named Sandra gave us a room with one bed and breakfast for 75 Lira.  (About $40).  In the morning we also learned that most of the housing is vacant because if you wanted to renovate you would have to do it in the old style and this could be quite expensive.  (I don't know how any machines would navigate the roads).  Also the road up to our hostel used to be good but they dug up the concrete from ancient times to lay down brick which was washed by the rain and terrible almost immediately.  

Day 7 March 2
Today we went to Ephesus and walked around some pretty amazing ruins.  Including a really old library that is seen in many photos when you look it up on the internet.  (Celcus).  
The kids were happy with all the stray cats.  (All of them pretty calm).
It was rainy but after driving in a one way with no option but to pay to enter we went for the walk anyway.  Kids in snow pants to try to keep them dry. We also bought an umbrella.  
About halfway through our walk the sun came out and it was hot!  Easton was having a day where being carried was necessary.  Hadley was having a motivated day where listening perfectly has earned her ice cream later.  She is being generous and kind as well.
Next we stopped at the house of Mary.  It is said this is the place where Jesus' mother lived out her final days.
While it was a cool old building, I found it to be more of a shrine and money grab.  I was surprised that inside had no chimney so I don't know how she would have cooked.  (Different from other buildings that clearly show a hole in the roof).
The kids did great being quiet while we were in there though.  If it was her house it would have been quite a hike up hill from town as it took us 15 minutes to drive there.  
Maybe it was maybe not.  
Still it is clear that lots of people think so.
After this we went to the ferry to cross Izmar harbour.  The kids really like this and Hadley decided that she would use some if her Turkish Lira coins in the machine to buy a drinking box.  
We got to Ayvalik late and found a Dominoes Pizza.  We spent quite a bit of time in here actually since we met a travelling Brit (who we shared many stories with) heading to Australia by motorcycle. Plus the workers kept giving our kids balloons.  (The restaurant was empty for a lot of time here so we just them play).  Then we went to navigate the skinny (sometimes one way) roads and eventually found our hotel at around 11pm.

Day 8
Today was kind of a boring day.  It was basically all driving.  We took a little longer at meal times, we tried to take the kids to the beach along the drive but it rained most of the day.
We did find some more shells for Hadley though.  She was happy about that.  
We ended up in Canakkale.  We spent some time people watching after dinner.  
It has been days without internet so we took some time for that and then bed.

Day 9
This morning we walked by the water front and saw the Trojan horse that was used in the 2004 movie Troy.  (With Brad Pitt).  Kinda cool but rainy so we didn't stay out long.
Then we headed to Troia.  Here we spent a few hours walking and exploring the city.  The rain had stopped.  The ruins were cool to walk around as always.  The kids loved the cave at the end.  Brian and I loved the theatre.  The weather was perfect.  Not hot, not cold, clouds with a blue sky.
We all thought it was cool to climb up into a replica horse.
By 4:30 pm we were hungry and headed to town for lunch and then we got on the ferry at 5:15pm to Kilitbahir.
From here it was a long drive to Istanbul.  

Day 10
Today we took the rental car back to the airport and then taxi'd back to the hotel.  Our hotel is minutes away from the grand bazaar.  So we spent the afternoon exploring.  We took some time to let a rug sales man show us his entire store.  The kids loved asking for rugs to be brought out on the floor for display.  We saw all five floors and the kids enjoyed it very much.  There were some really expensive and beautiful rugs!!!
Afterwards the workers even navigated us to a great restaurant for lunch.  :)
While exploring, Hadley managed to get some free bracelets for her and Easton.  I got some Turkish delight and we also found a carrier for the iPod touch that fits Hadley to hang like a saddle bag.  8tl or about $4 CDN.
I eventually found a set of Turkish tea cups with saucers.  $20 US.  The building was huge, old and beautiful.
After this we had some pool time back at the hotel and then dinner.  It was raining so we ordered some fries in the hotel pub to go along with our curtesy drinks.  Then when the rain had slowed we headed around the corner to what looked like a locals only type place.  We had bbq'd lamb which wasn't all that tasty despite how good it looked.  But the grilled sea bass was enjoyed by all of us.  
On the way back to the hotel Easton said to me.. This is crazy good fun!

Day 11
Today we spent the day in and around Topkapi Museum.  
First we enjoyed some time walking around the Park.  We brought a ball and played catch for a while.  Then the kids were happy when we found a playground.  (We didn't think there would be one so it was a nice surprise). Brian and I got a little bench break when the kids convinced some local girls to push them on the swings.  Hadley was happy that they understood English.
Lunch was at an outdoor cafe looking over the water.  Brian had tea but today is the first day of lent and I chose tea this year.  Hard to give up, especially since I just bought some awesome new tea cups.  Still the view was nice.
After lunch we explored in the museum.  Rooms filled with jewels, clothing, rugs and other beautiful things.  We saw pools of water, maps, old written script, and swords.
The flowers made spring feel close.
It was a beautiful day to be outside.  
So nice that we took a ferry ride at sunset just to enjoy time on the water.  We got some nice photos.
We stepped off the boat to put our feet in Asia and then got back on and returned to Europe.
After dinner we had ice cream at a local shop and the kids some how managed to be offered a free refill.
How??? No idea.  The locals are so generous!  The kids cheeks must be sore from the pinches but they don't seem to mind as it is usually followed by free stuff.  

Day 12
Today was a busy one.  The weather was supposed to be the same as yesterday... But it wasn't.  More on how cold it actually was later.
The morning started with a nice walk though the street markets by the grand bazaar followed by the spice market.  Of course the kids were gifted sweet treats here.  Brian and I bought some tea and some treats for the airport. The colours and displays were fabulous!
From here we went outside to find someone selling food for the pigeons.  Well Easton didn't need food he just wanted to run through them.  Hadley soon joined in the fun.  
We then walked on to see a rug being made in a store on our way to lunch.  The time and effort put into them is amazing!  Lunch was in a windowed sunroom.  We ordered a large Turkish plate of meats and rice with fresh tortillas to share.  Hadley really wanted a hamburger and french fries but she was pleasantly surprised that this too could be enjoyable .  From here we went to Hagia Sophia.  This museum was built in 537.  It was the worlds largest cathedral for nearly 1000 years!  The mosaics inside show history of the Christian church but the painted ceilings show how it was decorated for a mosque.  The building is huge!
This was not the most favourite place for the kids but beautiful and maybe later they will appreciate the photos.
From here we headed to The Blue Mosque.  I was glad that they offered free head scarves as I did not have one nor did I know where to buy one.  The experience was cool.  We had to take our shoes off which somehow made the kids understand that there were rules to be followed.  They were pretty quiet and attentive as we took it all in.  It too was a magnificently beautiful building.  
After leaving, the kids were quite cold so we decided dinner was in order.  We found a heated rooftop patio with views of both buildings.  However Easton was literally shivering (Brian was hot with just a t - shirt).  The restaurant brought blankets for the kids and we gave them our coats but when a table inside opened up we moved into a space were I thought I might get sun burnt from the heat.  (Just kidding but it was warm and they were the heat from above type.  The type we know from hockey arenas).  
Brian ordered a fish meal which looked great.  The kids devoured spaghetti.  Easton had sauce all over him but he thoroughly enjoyed it.  I had a clay pot meal.  It was a stew cooked on hot coals in a clay pot.  The presentation to bring it to me was cool with flames and a sword to open the pot.  Plus it tasted great!
We had a banana split for dessert and then took a few night photos outside of the mosques before taking the tram back to our hotel.   Just outside the tram stop was a purse shop and I found one to replace my broken one that I now carried.  A Burberry knock off for 10 Lira plus 10 American.  About $15 CDN.  
Now it was time to collect our luggage from the hotel and move to the hotel near the airport.  
Once we got there my hips were incredibly sore.  (They have been very sore through out the trip but now so sore that laying down was necessary and yet painful).  
The troops are all asleep as I write this post.  2am.  Hoping to find a comfortable sleeping position soon.
Tomorrow we fly home.  

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